Part two of our travel around Paris to find authentic bistro-style restaurants and great traditional bistro food will take us to even more fantastic restaurants that are part of the New Bistro movement that has been so prominent in the last twenty years in France. The first great bistro we visit takes us to Bertrand Aboyneau’s fantastic restaurant on rue Paul-Bert.
Le Bistrot Paul Bert
Le Bistrot Paul Bert was opened in the Bastille area in 1977, with a brief to serve classic and traditional bistro type dishes. This restaurant serves authentic Gallic food at its very best, following classic ways of creating and presenting bistro food. The interior also reflects the theme with cracked floor tiles and faded old adverts on the walls. The food served is seasonal and the changing dishes reflect this, marinated herring, terrine de campagne, veal chops and steak tartare.
A simple bistro hidden in the Latin Quarter of Paris, Christophe is simply decorated with bare wooden tables and walls. People come to Christophe for one thing, and that is the marvelous food. Mine host creates great modern French bistro dishes that are simply delicious with a southern French twist. So the dishes often feature fresh lemons, expect classic southern dishes such as citrus mille-feuille, as well as escargots swimming in Provencale butter, and steak accompanied by pureed potatoes.
A tiny bistro but highly popular, so much so that the owner Gregory Marchand is opening a second to cope with the demand. The chef has had superb experience working with Jamie Oliver in London and Danny Meyer in New York. The small bistro has exposed brick walls with factory-style lighting and the atmosphere is buzzing. With his vast experience around the world, Gregory Marchand uses different influences to create his food but there is no doubting his Gallic credentials. Poached eggs with grilled bacon, cream of mushroom soup is an example of what is served here, all with a distinctly French twist.
In a very bohemian part of Paris in the So-Pi area you can find a delightful friendly neighborhood bistro called Le Pantruche. Franck Baranger and Christian Constant are the two chefs’ behind this culinary oasis that is a testament to great French cooking. Do not expect fancy décor or plush fixtures and fittings, but do expect food of the highest quality. Contemporary French cooking at its very best is served at Le Pantruche, delicate, precise and all containing the best seasonal produce.
Recently on the menu, coddled eggs with creamed baby leeks, free range pork chop, and cod baked with Indian spices on a bed of lemon cabbage. The clever fusion of typical French ingredients and methods of cooking together with influences from around the world make the food at Le Pantruche a delight. These fantastic restaurants are a testament how serious that Parisians are about bringing back the traditions and tastes of true bistro cooking. Great dishes that are based on seasonal and local produce cooked simply and very often slowly. These establishments offer a modern version of affordable bistro food as it once was many years ago in Paris.